2015/11/9

義大利深秋 In the end of autumn



義大利已經是深秋時分。電視裡傳來播報員冷冷的聲音,說著十天後氣溫即將降至零度。

趁著還未天寒地凍到無法出門的地步,我和朋友結伴到義大利北部 Massa-Carrara 附近的 Campocecina風景區,體驗了秋天最後一抹光景。
陽光亮晃晃地照在光禿的松樹林裡,白光斜斜打在樹幹一側,閃爍著金屬般的光澤,讓人以為身在超現實的鐵樹林裡。霧氣在林中漂浮,像過往雲煙般,抓得住又抓不住,讓人覺得虛無縹緲,漫無邊際。

我們上山前忘記加油,已經騎了四十分鐘的車才發現這件事,於是開始劇烈爭吵著到底要繼續前進還是打道回府。最後雖然負氣決定不顧一切直接給他開上山去,但心情早已低落到谷底,眼淚模糊了視線,心中燃著熊熊怒火。

奇妙的是,原本慍怒陰鬱的心情,卻在抵達山頂後,瞬間煙消雲散。

空曠廣袤的美景,的確有安撫人心的能量。古今許多作家都曾討論過有靈氣的地方能夠帶給人力量,雖然人理智上不察,可是身體卻能深切感受到。我們雖然習慣了紛紛擾擾、五彩紛呈的城市生活,但追根究底,我們仍然是屬於大自然的。

從山頂望下去,可以見到環繞的山被切割成一方一方的,乳白色的大理石從綠色植被裡露了出來,像是一個皮膚白皙的女人衣裳被人一片片撕去。山再往前瞭望,是海天一線的海洋。海平線、清藍雲層與淡黃光霧層層層疊疊而上,澎湃敞亮,讓人看了不禁屏氣凝神,久久無法言語。

樹葉像雪花般,片片飛落在地。踩在上面感覺非常舒服,厚篤篤的,像是大地深棕帶紅的迷人地毯。乾枯的葉片質地像脆紙一樣,踩在上面一片嘎吱作響,十分痛快。

我們在這裡流連忘返,盡情呼吸著高山清冷提神的空氣,感到靈魂被洗刷乾淨。
直到太陽快下山時我們才啟程下山。摩托車油表已經顯示為零了。我們借著下坡山勢,一路往下滑,就這樣就著殘餘的日光,滑行了好幾公里遠。

抵達山裡第一個村子時,天已經完全暗了。我們被寒冷黑夜籠罩,燦亮星星在空中閃閃發光。向山下平原望去,城市燈火像複雜精細的花紋般爬滿了黑暗的大地。只有身在大自然中,才能如此將自己置身事外,細細從第三者角度品察人類文明的美麗與哀愁。在黑暗的宇宙中,有關人類的事物看起來 就像是這樣吧!

此時此刻,我感到一股異常的寂寥,卻也感到一股超脫的溫馨。

回到平地時,我們拽著機車去加油,並在加油站旁的販賣機裡買了一杯熱巧克力。

那杯裝著巧克力的白色塑膠杯,握在手裡,非常溫暖。

Italy is in late autumn now. The cold voice of the news reporter could be heard from TV, saying that in ten days it will be zero degree.

In case the weather becomes too cold and unbearable to go out, my friend and I decided to visit Campocecina, in order to catch the last glimpse of autumn.
The sunlight shone in between the bald pine trees. The light that reflected on the tree trunks was so solid and white, in one moment I thought I was inside a forest made of iron trees. Light fog floated in the air, forming up and dissolving, like memories, can not grab at them, but they still exist right in front of you. I felt empty.

We forgot to put gasoline in the motor bike before we drive up to the mountain. We realized the situation when we have already been driving for 40 mins, in the middle of nowhere. We had a huge and vicious fight arguing whether we should risk to go up to our destination or not. In the end we chose to drive up under a desperate and furious mood. I was so angry that I started to cry, I thought my day is ruined.

However, once we arrived on top of the mountain, all the negative moods disappeared.

The massive and beautiful nature indeed has a very strong power to heal people. From ancient to modern times there are always great authors talking about how "spiritual places" can bring energy to people, although we can't recognize this fact consciously, but our bodies react naturally to it. We are used to the hustle and bustle city life, but in the end we still belong to nature.

Looking down from the cliff, we saw the mountains in front of us were cut in sharp angles. Those places are the marble mines of Carrara. The milky white marbles bared out from the green plantations, looked like a white skin woman's clothes being peeled off pieces by pieces. In front of those mountains are the ocean. Horizon, azure clouds and gentle yellow lights piled up layer by layer in the the of the world, the scene was so marvelous and fresh, that watching it, I couldn't speak for a long time.

Leaves fell on the ground like snow flakes. It felt very comfortable to walk on top of those leaves, liked walking on top of a thick, brown carpet. The dried leaves crunched like paper when I trampled on them, I felt very satisfactory.

We lingered here all the afternoon, inhaling and exhaling the cold fresh air, feeling our souls being washed clean. It was not until the sun was already going down that we decided to go back home. We slide all the way down for many miles, with the last smear of sunlight.

When we arrived the first village, the sky already turned dark completely. We were surrounded by cold darkness, brilliant starts shone in the night sky. Looking down to the plain in front of us, the city lights were like intricate patterns, climbing and stretching on the earth. It's only when we are in nature that we can get out of the box, that we can see the loneliness and beauty of human civilization from an outsider view. I guess every human-related things simply look like this from the universe!

At the moment, I suddenly felt an eccentric loneliness, and a nirvana-liked warmth.

When we finally arrived Carrara, we dragged our motorbike to the gas station nearby to charge the gasoline, and bought some hot chocolate from the vending machine nearby.

I held the white plastic cup that contained the hot chocolate in my hands, and I felt very warm.


















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